Martin Frei, URWERK’s co-founder and designer is a self-confessed victim of the lure of gold: “There’s always this little inner voice that reminds me how much I love this metal. Beyond the march of technology, changes in fashion, new functions, new materials; gold is always gold. It’s forever. It’s the metal that lights me up.” The designer’s infatuation for the noblest of materials that lives forever without a stain on its glory is how the UR-105 Raging Gold came to be. A shield of red gold carved in an intriguing pattern serves as the bezel on a titanium case.
The Urwerk UR-105 Raging Gold is fitted in a black coated titanium case with red gold guilloché bezel, which measures 39.50mm in width x 53mm length x 16.80mm thickness. The UR-105 works on the fundamental concept of Urwerk’s watchmaking, the wandering hour principle, in which each hour travels in turn across a 60-minute arc. This ancient and more intuitive way of telling the time is made easier by a mask made of PEEK, a semi-crystalline polymer, which hides the hours that have completed their 60-minute patrol. The mask is also superbly decorated in proper traditional style. This 105 version incorporates the latest developments in Urwerk’s constant efforts to add value to the wandering hour principle. The most intricate part of the mechanism, the carousel, which carries the hours in groups of three on four satellite discs, is hidden. It silently and unerringly brings the right hour to the right place at the right time.
On the back of the UR-105, turbines control the selfwinding system. Switch the lever to FULL and the winding rotor reacts to your slightest movement to wind the mainspring. In the RED (reduced) position, the rotor’s movements are dampened to avoid excessive tension in the mainspring. In the STOP position the selfwinding mechanism is disengaged and the watch can be wound manually with the crown.
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