Q&A With: Bulgari Watch Designer Fabrizio Buonamassa.

1. How did you get into watch designing?

Honestly I don’t know, I started my career when I was a kid, at 4, I started to make sketches about watches and cars, and immediately after, watches. You need to be passionate, you need to love watches. But anyways, I’m an industrial designer so I have to be able to design cameras, forniture, watches, jewelry, sunglasses, its exactly the same thing for me, but if you want to design watches at a certain level for sure you need to love watches. 


2. Which aspect of your work do you enjoy the most?

Make sketches, this is my big passion, to make sketches about objects, I spent a lot of hours during my life making sketches, imagine, for sure, I have a great talent to make sketches, but at certain moment of my life I spent 10 – 12 hours per day doing sketches and drawings, its something I love. 


3.What is the source of inspiration when it comes to design a new timepiece?

It comes from everywhere, yesterday morning I was in an Teotihuacan, went to see the pyramids, and it was really impressive for me, you get a lot of inspiration, so is very important to notice your creativity, you can not manage it 100% but is very important to get inspiration from everywhere. Often if comes from the brand, because is so rich in terms of science, often Rome, Italian design culture, but honestly I don’t have just one source of inspiration. When something comes to my mind, I sketch it immediately because otherwise it pass away and you forget. 


4.Is there any limitation when it comes to designing a new timepiece?

No, honestly I’m lucky, because at Bulgari we have the opportunity to make a lot of different things in different ways, so constrains, is just technical constrains, comes from the technology, comes from the know-how,  comes from the materials, but you see the product of the last 10 years are made with my ideals, my needs, we talk about the Octo, we talk about the Serpenti, different executions of Serpenti and Octo, so im very free. I must respect the DNA of the brand, the heritage of the brand, but at the same time I have to be able to make an evolution of it, because otherwise you make the same things and is a little bit boring, but when you see Bulgari product today you see the Octo , you see Serpenti, you can not make mistakes, its a different product, today Octo Finissimo is something very strong, in terms of style, in terms of technical features, is absolutely unvealivable.


5.What is your biggest achievement in your career at bulgari?

Maybe to reinvent the Serpenti watch, because Octo generate a new segment, but is completely different from other competitor that make ultra thin watches, but maybe the Serpenti that we introduce 10 years ago it changed completely the brand because its the unique science that you can find through all of our products.


6.Talking about the Octo, why making the bezel circular, and not angular like the other elements of the case. 

We designed this watch, Bulgari got Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth in 2000, so the idea was to reinvent the Gerald Genta brand, those brands didn’t have a design team, so we developed the Octo internally in Rome with some external consultant. If the idea comes to generate new aesthetics through shapes, this is a little bit the aesthetic of bulgari, we made the collection of coins, jewelry coins in the 70´s that we called gemme numarie and is exactly like this, is a coin with a round shaped bezel on an octagonal case, the octagonal shape is something that has a very strong meaning in the roman culture, you can find in different cultures like christians or the muslims, starting from the Egyptian, the octagonal shape is the perfect combination between the round shape and the square one, the square is the earth and the round is the heave, so the octagonal means a perfect balance of the life you have on earth and the life you will have on heaven. So thats why we decided to combine this shape together, is something that is in our brand for a long time. 


7.Whats next for bulgari?

Next for bulgari is continue to develop our Pilars, Octo, Serpenti and Lucea, so will have some introduction in Geneva during our pre-Basel and will have great introduction in Baselworld, we will continue to develop our asset, Finissimo and Serpenti in a different way, with a different executions, with different materials, so you will see very important novelties. 




Armin Strom México