Baselworld 2017: Manufacture Royale ADN
The Manufacture Royale ADN watch is a fascinating watchmaking creation, imposing its style through the Brand’s identity codes. The dynamic forms, three-dimensional architecture and strength of design highlight a singular character. Its sculptural aesthetic is animated by a perfect mechanism, reinterpreting the art of ‘skeleton’ movements in a resolutely contemporary vision.
The case of the Manufacture Royale ADN watch is directly inspired by the Opera and Androgyne models at the heart of the brand’s revival. Its curves have been rounded and softened, bestowing its ‘steampunk’ style with an even more modern character. Its mobile horns pivot on the dial formed by two lateral stretcher pieces enclosing the middle whose round bezel is held by 12 screws. This technical construction (no fewer than 67 components) has been studied for optimal ergonomics which lend excellent comfort when worn despite its 46 mm diameter. What’s more, it allows for combinations of original materials. In fact, the Manufacture Royale ADN watch is available in three versions: stainless steel, stainless steel-DLC and forged carbon (pink gold and forged carbon).
A unique movement
The ‘ADN’ is built around the exclusive MR09 calibre, a new demonstration of the creativity and combined expertise of the Manufacture. This manually wound mechanical movement indicates a first time zone on a dial at noon combining an innovative ‘jumping’ hour digital display with an analogue minute display featuring a sword-shaped hand. The periodical jump of a disc reveals the hour through an aperture at the exact place where the number is traditionally positioned on the dial. It is quick, intuitive and fun to read.
The second time zone indication is offset at 4 o’clock on a sub-dial with an open-worked centre. The minutes are independent, a rare and useful functionality suited to all time zones, including those which vary by 30 or 15 minutes from the GMT reference. For added sophistication, the hours and minutes of the second time zone are set using the crown without the use of traditional push-pieces or adjustment buttons. The watch is set in position 1 for local reference time and position 2 for the travel destination time.
The calibre MR09 is regulated by a one-minute flying tourbillon which fights against the effects of gravity. Mounted on ceramic ball bearings, the tourbillon cage is fixed only on one side, in order to admire its fascinating ballet and splendid hand-finishings. Its balance with regulating screws oscillates at 21,600 vibrations per hour for a power reserve of at least 80 hours.
The art of the enhanced skeleton movement
By removing all unnecessary components, the Manufacture Royale enhances the structure of the movement in a highly technical production playing on transparency and volumes. With the brand’s customised approach, superb movement finishings are adapted to the design of each version. The finely angled bridges feature a rhodium finish for the stainless steel model and a darker NAC finish for the forged carbon models.
On the back of the watch, the sapphire crystal closed by 4 screws highlights the movement. The stainless steel-DLC version’s crystal is tinted red, reflecting the touches of colour that punctuate other elements of its design. The movement reveals its splendid architecture under a different light. Magnified by the ‘skeleton’ execution, the functions are connected in a circle around the barrel with the tourbillon, the jumping hour mechanism of the first time zone (with its regulating spring and jumper) and the mechanism of the second time zone. Everything is perfectly finished. Hand-chamfering, circular-graining, brushed polishing or hooping highlight the attention to detail.
The Manufacture Royale ADN watch is offered on a flexible black or red rubber strap with stainless steel or stainless steel-DLC folding buckle, ensuring wearing comfort and security.
For more info. on Manufacture Royale, Click Here.